I wouldn’t want to belong to a club which would have me as a member – Groucho Marx.
The walk upwards from Vega yesterday was a real test on my will to walk.
It was humid.
I was tired.
The track was steep and it was also very hot.
However, it is also a beautiful route and I was lucky to share the walk with fellow pilgrim friends:
4.7km before you reach Cebreiro, you walk into the village of La Faba and here – if you arrive early enough – you have the wonderful option of staying in the 5-bed donativo refugio, with wonderful hospitalero/a who wear an eternal smile and who serve up vegetarian food as part of the donativo experience:
I was intent on continuing upwards to Cebreiro so I didn’t stop here, besides anyway I did ask and they were already complet at 2pm in the afternoon. If they had a bed then I might just have stayed on in La Faba for a day of Ganesh-gazing wonder.
The remaining 4,7km walk upwards to Cebreiro from La Faba isn’t as demanding as the walk into La Faba, but is still a hike rather than a gentle walk in the park.
Ah, officially in Galicia:
Galicia for me means green Devonesque countryside, cold mornings, friendly people, and of course a return to exceptional bread again.
I arrived to Cebreiro (the first village the Camino reaches in Galicia) yesterday late afternoon and
visited the albergue there for a sneaky shower and shave. I was almost on zero Euro so I decided to find the optimum place in the village to play, unpacked my guitar, threw a few coins into my guitar case and began belting out tunes from my repertoire:
A new song in my repertoire was Lucy in the sky with diamonds and this one is proving more popular than Hey Jude. I played for about an hour and a half and raised 17 Euro; before the evening grew cold and windy and before the streets became deserted.
I love playing on the street and it’s always a good opportunity to meet pilgrims past and present. I bumped into Anne-Marie yesterday – a pilgrim I had met in France – and her friend took this photo of her and the gypsy-looking, guitar-wielding pilgrim:
If you look at the photo carefully you will see a cigarette on the floor, in the right of the photo. I have been smoking a few cigarettes in the evenings only and I feel that although it isn’t the optimum way forward that it is however a less brutal route towards a total stopping of the drug.
After the brief “concert” I packed up, went to the over-priced supermarket to grab a bite to eat and a beer, and then walked on into the evening and along the Galician path shrouded in mist and low cloud cover. The path from Cebreiro gradually descends and it is a lovely walk through green pasture land. I spotted this pilgrim on my walk down, at Alto do San Roque and at an altitude of 1,270m:
Walking on I arrived to the village of Hospital and felt that I had found the perfect spot to sleep for the night. It turned out to be the perfect spot to sleep for the night:
Only about 150km to go until Santiago and then another 90-ish to Finisterre.
I’m in a mixed mood about the looming inevitable end to my Camino.