Meltdown on the way to Arzacq-Arraziguet

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The walk out of Aire sur l’Adour yesterday was pleasant and I would definitely return to the town in the future to hang for a few days and soak up the atmosphere more; a lovely town with lovely people.

The countryside though seemed more Dutch than French:

French Holland

The Camino signs around here are very good:

Camino sign

In the early afternoon the rain hit again, just after I stopped for my siesta at a crossroads.
I had only brought a small baguette with me and I began feeling hungry.
It was demanding getting up after my rest and I wondered whether I was falling ill.

As I walked on I came across a main road and there was a woman standing by her car, looking as though she was waiting for someone. She asked me if I wanted cheese and I said “ok”. I didn’t really understand where the cheese was or whether she had mistaken me for someone else so I asked “how much?”. The reply was a gorgeous zero and she took cheese, chocolate and sweets from her car, gave them to me and wished me a good journey. I thanked her – calling her my angel – and she drove off along the road, beeping her horn as she faded along the tarmac.

I walked on – feeling VERY stuffed after woofing down all of the food – and reached the very friendly village of Miramont Sensacq and suddenly felt very depressed and without the motivation to continue. It was nothing less than a meltdown. I decided to go to sleep on the grass, in front of the church, and then when I still felt tired after waking up I drifted down to a building with cover and set up my sleeping bag for the night. I missed my children, was tired of the weather and the relatively boring landscape. In short the future suddenly felt very dark and bleak.

I slept to the sound of rain hitting concrete, wood and tarmac.

In the morning I woke feeling much more positive and able to see the bright future ahead of the way. I packed up, popped into a Gite to ask for boiling water for my coffee and the hospitalero there offered me a complimentary cup of coffee from the pot. It was a very positive start to the day and only slightly darkened by the continued onset of rain and the muddy paths which made the walk very demanding (post photo).

The way continued along a combination of mud and tarmac, to the backdrop of relatively heavy rain:

Rainy Camino

Not long to go:

911km to Santiago


I passed quite a lot of overweight animals this morning and couldn’t help but wonder how they felt, feeling stuffed all the time as I did briefly yesterday:

French cow

In a small village I came across this statue crime scene:

Statue Crime Scene

I’m currently in the small town of Arzacq-Arraziguet and feeling a little nauseous.
I’m going to pack my rucksack and continue along the way and hope to feel better by the evening.

The rain continues to inflict its presence on all pilgrims walking along the Chemin Saint Jacques today.

Categories: Walking into Spring and Summer [My 3,109km walk from Prague to Finisterre]Tags: ,


  1. Chin up pilgrim Neville. It was probably just a chocolate come down. Just keep thinking of the positives. Loving the pilgrimage reports 😀

  2. What does not kill you,makes you stronger. I completely know what you feel, last year when I started the Camino I had miserable weather as well, rain, snow, floods, etc. But i guess that’s the camino as well. I was about to quit in Saint Jean Pied de Port when I opened the window and saw a clear blue sky the day I had to cross the Pyrenees. Since that day my whole trip in Spain got spoiled by one day of rain… so chin up indeed my friend. After the rain comes sun, that’s for sure.
    I am glad to read that you walk the camino as well, without use of other transportation, the closer you get to the border the more people you will see taking a taxi or a bus. I just hope you will be able to accept the shock on the camino Francès, there will be loads more of people, and the language will change from French to English. I could not handle it. In Pamplona I had to change towards San Sébastian in order to continue on the Camino Norte.
    Buen Camino my friend.

    Ps if your boots can make it to Pamplona, try to buy new ones there. It’s pretty cheap and I bought a pair of lightweight Lowa Renegades for less then €80.

    • Hi David. Yes, I have walked the GR65 in its entirety: never taking the easy road option and definitely never taking any form of transport other than my 2 legs. I have noticed a bottleneck in the last few days of pilgrims and the build up of commercialism, and I’ll be glad to join the Camino Frances to get away from the 2 or 3 day “Camino” walkers. I walked the Camino Frances last year and I choose to do it again this year because I so loved the Meseta and I also enjoyed the amount of international pilgrims on the trail. I’m actually thinking of going bare foot from St.Jean 🙂 Thank you for your comment and thank you so much for following my journey! Nev 🙂

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