I took Michael’s advice and stayed the night at Neukirchen and in the morning (yesterday) we both set out at around 8:30am and began our ascent. The snow line quickly became apparent.
Michael had a small issue with his leg and we decided that we both had different walking paces, so I continued on at my rabbit pace and passed over the top of the mountain pass and then down out of the snow line again.
The Camino signs are still very good and clearly show the way as well as they do along the Camino Frances in northern Spain.
Less than 90km to go until Regensburg.
Afternoon tea on the lake. The weather had improved until the snow came again a few hours later. Late afternoon I became anxious about finding a semi-warm place to spend the night (outside).
After walking off the path and into a field of cow manure, and then the weather beginning to decide to snow again, I spotted a potential “hotel” option manifesting over the top of a hill.
It was only 4:30 in the afternoon but I needed to dry out my boots and grab some rest, so I chose to stay the night at the church in the village of Moosbach (Bavaria).
I unpacked my roll mat and sleeping bag, made a pot of green tea, and got down to some light reading while I waited for the sun to go down.
A little while later I was awoken by the priest, his wife and their son (who spoke excellent English) and after a brief conversation – the same deer in the headlights look when I explained that I was walking to Santiago – they very very very nicely offered that I could move my things to a back building and sleep there for the night. They provided me with a blanket, heater, and supper. Wonderful hospitality and for sure a much more comfortable sleep than had I slept in the church porch as I had originally planned to do.
I slept like a baby to the white noise of the heater.
My supper and breakfast basket. The food in Bavaria is of a very high quality. I still feel full now as I get ready to again hit the path towards Regensburg, and eventually the Atlantic ocean.
Neville David Thomas